The Divine Mrs. Vreeland

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Thursday, October 18, 2012

"Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel" movie poster
The story of a truly remarkable and inventive woman that was the venerable Diana Vreeland, who changed the look, the feel, and ideals of the (fashion) magazine industry and the art world itself was told brilliantly and poignantly in the remarkable fashion documentary, "Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel".

The film takes a candid approach of telling Vreeland's story through archival recorded sittings with author George Plimpton during the writing of her autobiography "D.V" and through the myriad images of her extensive work as fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar and Editor-in-chief of Vogue Magazines. She was known as the 'Empress of Fashion', a fitting title. She was a true visionary; the fashion magazine as we know it today would not be what it is without Diana Vreeland. Her forward-thinking take on the magazine format as a life-of-style features compendium brought readers an unparalleled access to popular and art culture and iconographic imagery through her extraordinary work in fashion editorial storytelling and the discovery of the first generation of fashion supermodels (even before the term was coined) and the celebrity fashion feature. Vreeland took the magazine, which was once a vehicle of idle passing for the women of the time and turned it into something that the masses would read. Her approach aimed to paint the world in a different light of understanding and urged your view of it in an entirely different perspective and made you question what was "style", how it defined and what it meant to you.
She did the same thing for the art world, practically inventing the fashion exhibition with her work that she did with the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. Spinning the idea in everyone's mind that going to an art museum wasn't just a tour of historical relics but something that was alive, that it was living and breathing. Diana knew that art was meant to be an experience for the viewer and something real and visceral and that you the viewer, were a part of.  She created the fashion exhibition into a point a reference into the fantasy/reality world of fashion, educating the Institute's patrons and, in her style, making it into the biggest and most spectacular event ever.  Her aim was to present fashion as art, not just fashion as craft. She created wonderful exhibits that showed us that fashion isn't something that is utilitarian or something we mime through every single day, but something that is crafted with creative thought and with creation of beauty at its very core. Imagine what today's plethora of fashion exhibitions would be like without the spark that Vreeland created with her tenure at the Met, let alone that she was responsible in creating the Costume Institute's Met Ball, the "Oscars" of the fashion industry which is the premiere event of the Art and Fashion worlds.

All in all, this delightful film brings Diana Vreeland back to life for a generation of people who knew her and introduces her to a new generation. Honestly, she was a delightfully eccentric coo coo bird of a woman who in all (sense of the word) fashion really was herself a work of art and an inspiration of so many people.
I will never forget how Vreeland inspired me when I first encountered her through the pages of vintage Vogue and Harper's Bazaar's on quiet afternoons in the public library. I would gawk and gasp at the images in front of my eyes and be transported to places beyond my young imagination, longing to reach out and be there for real. Or how I'd look at the unusual beauty of Anjelica Huston or Penelope Tree, or the timeless perfection of Marisa Berenson or Lauren Hutton, and see myself reflected back in fragments and parts and come to know that I too, in my unique way, were just as beautiful (if not more). And, the first time I ever visited a museum (outside of my hometown, on a family trip to New York) and saw a world of history presented through clothes was at the Met, where art came to life and fashion became art for me. These very fond memories are because of Diana Vreeland, who taught me to always cultivate the eye and let it travel and that you most definitely have got to have...style.

"Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel" in select theaters now. Please see your local listings.

-fggofstyle

Master of Iconography, Herb Ritts: L.A. Style

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Friday, August 24, 2012

"Herb Ritts: L.A. Style" book cover 



In this modern age of image, how you look and present yourself has become the crux of importance. This focus on image became crafted throughout our post modern age via television, music, film, and advertising. This lens became the way we "see" ourselves. Yet in the world of contemporary art, it is the photographer who hones and perfects this craft and brings it in its presentation to us, the viewer (or subject sometimes) with an interesting outcome. No other modern photographer has done it in such a way as Herb Ritts, who use of natural light, simple composition, and emotional resonance has captivated us and brought to the most iconic and prolific images of celebrity, fashion, commerce, music, and art. At the apex of sensuality, nature, individuality, shadow, celebrity, and style stood Ritts, who became its master and brought a truly unique and starkly simple view of the end of the 20th century.

I became a huge Herb Ritts fan in the mid 80s when I became familiar with his work through the images he produced for celebrities like Richard Gere and Madonna, in ad campaigns for Revlon and Calvin Klein, and the countless fashion magazine pictorials found in the pages of "Vanity Fair", "Interview", "Vogue", and "Harpers Bazaar" Magazines. His use of the uber-models of the day (Cindy, Christy, Naomi, Stephanie, Helena, Tony, Djimon, et al) not only made them recognizable but made them into stars in their own right and catapulated anything they were involved in into fashion spectaculars. Yet Ritts utilized them in traditional ways befitting a model: as a chameleon of pose, light, and shape sculpted in the forms through the hands/lens of the artist. The same thing can be said when he created memorable portraits for celebrities: using their personality and individuality to elevate the portrait to a personal moment fluid with freedom and expression of his subject. And these models and stars regularly worked with Ritts and enjoyed the artistically natural and collaborative process he imbued on his projects and it shows throughout his body of work.

On view at the Getty Center is the fantastic photographic retrospective "Herb Ritts: L.A. Style". It is a broad mix of well-known and lesser seen works by Ritts, who in the late 70s began his ouevre and left us too soon. It is an interesting show: sectioned off in group areas such as "Nudes" (his most striking work), "Celebrity Portraits" (where his signature evolves and shines and elevates the genre of celebrity itself), "Music Videos and Commercials" (his work in movement form and where he changed the entire scope of music videos for the best), and "Fashion" (at the ultimate top of the fashion chain, Ritts creates indelibly wonderful imagery and editorial work). One of my favorite items is the Britney Spears Vogue Magazine cover (Novemeber 2001) and its original two composite shots with art direction touch up notes on the Britney photo itself alongside the finished magazine cover because, as great as Ritts' portrait is by itself, we get to glimpse what it takes to show "perfection" (those edit notes made me chuckle a bit) so that an image becomes branded as "Vogue". I also enjoyed re-viewing the award winning music video he shot for Janet Jackson's "Love will Never Do (Without You)", shown in its entirety as his signature video work (although Madonna's "Cherish" was his premiere foray into the genre); it still is a great 5 minutes of artistic magic to this day. I did wish the Getty included the Ritts directed video for Michael Jackson's "In The Closet" featuring model Naomi Campbell but it was absent perhaps because of its similarities to Janet's video or some situation having to do with Michael's estate, perhaps (in its place there is the Rolling Stones Magazine cover of MJ, a still from that video shoot)...? I'm sure there are some hidden gems that the Herb Ritts Foundation has tucked away somewhere and perhaps in future retrospectives we may get the chance to see them but the Getty has put together a good show and it is definitely one to go and experience for yourself and enjoy the scope and breadth of this wonderful artist's contribution to the world.

The Getty Center presents the retrospective until September 2, 2012 before it moves next to the Cincinnati Art Museum.
Don't miss it!

-fggofstyle
(photo via Getty and the companion book can be purchased by clicking on the highlighted link)





RELATED LINKS

The Herb Ritts Foundation 

The Getty Center--"Herb Ritts: L.A. Style" 

Tilda Swinton covers W Magazine

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Saturday, July 23, 2011

Tilda Swinton
It doesn't get any better than this: out of this Universe beauty Tilda Swinton dons the cover of this month's W Magazine, with an equally incredible editorial inside. W Magazine gets major points for think forwardly and by keeping my fashion imagination going. Tilda, wearing the best of the best of contemporary designer clothing in a surreal Icelandic setting, everything comes together in its strange, beautiful, and weird way in the editorial, perfect in its pitch, execution, and presentation. Thanks W Magazine for keeping American fashion editorial forward-thinking and relevant!
-fggofstyle

Click here to view the editorial and accompanying video of the fashion production:
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Model Muggle: Emma Covers US Vogue

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Friday, June 17, 2011

Vogue July 2011 cover
(photo via popoholic.com)
Emma Watson, in Vogue Italia 2008
(photo via vogueitalia.com)
Emma Watson puts us all under her spell again on the cover of Vogue's July issue. This is the first time she makes the coveted magazine's cover, but not her first time to cover a Vogue magazine, having donned both Vogue Italia and Vogue UK and doing two great editorials in each of them. This month's editorial shows a decidedly grown-up version of Emma, wearing key pieces from the Fall collections. I'm sure this is just the first of many major covers we'll see her on, as she closes out her run in the Harry Potter film series this summer and begins her new journeys in her young adult life. Enjoy!




-fggofstyle
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Inès De La Fressange brings the "Chic"

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Sunday, April 24, 2011

Ines De La Fressange
(photo via Huffington Post
Ever chic, and tres French, model and Chanel muse Inès De La Fressange can do no wrong in this cover shot for French magazine "Madame Figaro".
This woman is truly, quintessentially, stylish and chic. Maybe the definition of it, at least in the white hot moment of now as far as "French style" is concerned. Writing a best seller also helps ("Parisian Chic: A Style Guide"), and being a long time model also adds to the panache and allure. I think it is because she is herself and true to her own style that makes Inès  a fashion luminary and an icon.

-fggofstyle



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Cover Commando: Prada Spring 2011

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Sunday, April 17, 2011

It's no wonder Prada can command the presence of a major fashion magazine cover because, in every sense of the word, Miuccia Prada can make even burlap the height of fashion, because she is this generation's fashion style savant. Collection after collection comes out in stellar form, devoid of pretense and full of promise and, no doubt style. The Spring 2011 Collection continues to fuel the Prada machine, landing what could be a record number of covers, 48 and counting. Aside from the sheer number, I think we need to examine what the point is being made here by fashion, Prada, and pop culture right now. To me, I feel that this may be the point, or, rather, my interpretation of it (suffice it to say this all comes from viewing a collection with a certain eye and a certain psychology, and gosh-darn-it a "I covet that" desire):
"Avenuel" Magazine
(photo via fashionista.com)

1. I hope its not lost on the masses the true appeal and fun of colorful dressing
2. shows that stylists do in fact share a collective thought-sense with a common vision of moving a fashion consciousness into the public stream of style development
3. injects whimsy and lightens our mood and approach to Spring dressing
4. everyone gets that its fun to get dressed always (and again).
5. Miuccia has a damn good PR firm spinning the wheels
6. start wearing more color NOW

I was telling someone just today that I could be getting close to being over seeing this collection all over the place but honestly I was just projecting how I am over wearing dark colors. Seeing the Spring collection all over the place is perhaps just the reminder that we all need to break free of the dark and step into the color and the bright...

-fggofstyle



Prada’s Spring Collection Lands 48 Covers (Way More Than We Originally Counted) – Fashionista: Fashion Industry News, Designers, Runway Shows, Style Advice
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