The Divine Mrs. Vreeland

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Thursday, October 18, 2012

"Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel" movie poster
The story of a truly remarkable and inventive woman that was the venerable Diana Vreeland, who changed the look, the feel, and ideals of the (fashion) magazine industry and the art world itself was told brilliantly and poignantly in the remarkable fashion documentary, "Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel".

The film takes a candid approach of telling Vreeland's story through archival recorded sittings with author George Plimpton during the writing of her autobiography "D.V" and through the myriad images of her extensive work as fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar and Editor-in-chief of Vogue Magazines. She was known as the 'Empress of Fashion', a fitting title. She was a true visionary; the fashion magazine as we know it today would not be what it is without Diana Vreeland. Her forward-thinking take on the magazine format as a life-of-style features compendium brought readers an unparalleled access to popular and art culture and iconographic imagery through her extraordinary work in fashion editorial storytelling and the discovery of the first generation of fashion supermodels (even before the term was coined) and the celebrity fashion feature. Vreeland took the magazine, which was once a vehicle of idle passing for the women of the time and turned it into something that the masses would read. Her approach aimed to paint the world in a different light of understanding and urged your view of it in an entirely different perspective and made you question what was "style", how it defined and what it meant to you.
She did the same thing for the art world, practically inventing the fashion exhibition with her work that she did with the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. Spinning the idea in everyone's mind that going to an art museum wasn't just a tour of historical relics but something that was alive, that it was living and breathing. Diana knew that art was meant to be an experience for the viewer and something real and visceral and that you the viewer, were a part of.  She created the fashion exhibition into a point a reference into the fantasy/reality world of fashion, educating the Institute's patrons and, in her style, making it into the biggest and most spectacular event ever.  Her aim was to present fashion as art, not just fashion as craft. She created wonderful exhibits that showed us that fashion isn't something that is utilitarian or something we mime through every single day, but something that is crafted with creative thought and with creation of beauty at its very core. Imagine what today's plethora of fashion exhibitions would be like without the spark that Vreeland created with her tenure at the Met, let alone that she was responsible in creating the Costume Institute's Met Ball, the "Oscars" of the fashion industry which is the premiere event of the Art and Fashion worlds.

All in all, this delightful film brings Diana Vreeland back to life for a generation of people who knew her and introduces her to a new generation. Honestly, she was a delightfully eccentric coo coo bird of a woman who in all (sense of the word) fashion really was herself a work of art and an inspiration of so many people.
I will never forget how Vreeland inspired me when I first encountered her through the pages of vintage Vogue and Harper's Bazaar's on quiet afternoons in the public library. I would gawk and gasp at the images in front of my eyes and be transported to places beyond my young imagination, longing to reach out and be there for real. Or how I'd look at the unusual beauty of Anjelica Huston or Penelope Tree, or the timeless perfection of Marisa Berenson or Lauren Hutton, and see myself reflected back in fragments and parts and come to know that I too, in my unique way, were just as beautiful (if not more). And, the first time I ever visited a museum (outside of my hometown, on a family trip to New York) and saw a world of history presented through clothes was at the Met, where art came to life and fashion became art for me. These very fond memories are because of Diana Vreeland, who taught me to always cultivate the eye and let it travel and that you most definitely have got to have...style.

"Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel" in select theaters now. Please see your local listings.

-fggofstyle

Trendsetting: Follow Your Own Personal Trend Report

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Sunday, October 7, 2012

"Be a trendsetter instead of a trend follower".
I've been saying this for an extremely long time, more as a call to cultivating your own personal look rather than an anarchistic statement. Now, echoes of a similar statement are rippling forward like a wave from the very influencers of "trends": fashion directors and editors. It made me wonder, "Isn't this shooting your own foot and looking your gift horse in the mouth and taking candy from a baby all at the same time?".  All funny aside, as a personal stylist, its my job to create and cultivate a personal image for a client that shows who they are based on how they see themselves and in what way they want to express this individuality in their professional (and personal) world. Hearing publicly that other fashion professionals are saying the same thing (this is not an insider secret, rather a secret understanding not spoken in all my fifteen plus years in the industry), it really is a welcome to me (and maybe to you) that the top brass are letting the truth (or reality) come out.
What does this mean for the now ubiquitous trends-based fashion editorials that come out without fail (and with much fanfare) each season? I don't think that editors and directors and fashion designers themselves are negating these trend editorials in the slightest, or that they are saying anything conversely regarding trends in their collective thinking, nor do I think that these editorials are going to disappear anytime soon. I think they are just paying more direct attention to the solid fact that the consumer has the freedom of choosing any option that fits to their vestiary needs; in effect, we buy whatever we want regardless of trends. I strongly believe that there will forever be an intrinsic and highly elevated importance for editorials because that is the very place where we, the consumer, get to see the trends "in action" (and as an art form). The featured trends get planted into our sartorial subconscious and we take these images with us when we go to market (or sit at our computers and go to our favorite online boutiques) but here's the thing that happens: we see the visual merchandising or brand marketing and get another viewpoint of said trends. In that instant, our idea of said trends gets altered. This happens numerous times until, I feel, the latest trends become a uniform staple.
The marketplace needs trends, bottom line. It is the driver of the (fashion) retail business (through the mechanism of marketing campaigns, editorial coverage, and the like). It is what gets you into the store, and what gets your currency into the tills. Yet when you are making choices about your personal presentation, you really can't follow and adhere to trends entirely because (how my thinking goes) doing so becomes a crutch, becomes blandly utilitarian. A sprinkle here and there of one or two trends is all it takes; by utilizing the inspiration that any particular trend resonates with you and mixing that with your own uniqueness, that trend will bring your personal style to different expressions. We need to view trends in creative terms like texture or shading and contour on your sartorial canvas, allowing you to paint interesting style strokes into your wardrobe.

What about the notion of saturation--how many trends are too many trends, and, how many times can we stand to witness a trend returning (again and again) into our style consciousness? Once, thrice, ten times before we say "enough!"? For me, in this case, trends lose much appeal and they lose it fast. Here is where I ignore the notion of saturation and allow myself to be motivated in my purchasing choices each season by making additions to my overall fashion collection that will stand the test of time and keep my individual aesthetic fresh, vibrant, and holistically rooted in my personal image. And at today's quick rate of "trend overturn", over exposure to trend reports and editorials perhaps are where the notion of "trends are growing passe" is coming from. This may be, in fact, the case but more along the line that trends are no longer dictating personal style inasmuch as they are dictating the marketplace to get you in the door and let you adapt a trend to your liking. I am a firm believer in the idea of if a trend appears at least two more times as the "current trend" it is no longer a trend, it is a new mode of dressing. When you've adopted and adapted a new mode of dressing to your personal style encyclopedia, you evolve your style consciousness in a whole new way. Through adaptation, you've done away with trends, without ever having followed them in their entirety and have allowed them to be points of reference and of consumer options.

At their very core, trends are compendiums of choice. They're neat little packages to help guide you through the seas of fashion. In today's advancing information age we have innumerable fashion choices. Its not always easy to navigate through all the plethora of cuts and color and shape and fabric, yet somehow we do it, perhaps motivated by the positive notion of a trend, or perhaps by the notion of proving the trend contrarily.  And where there is choice, there is the liberty of invention. How you choose to express your style is amazingly complex, deeply expressive, and infinitely individual. We can't ever forget this nor lose sight of it. We have our own personal trend reports flowing in our minds. We cultivate them by seeing the art in fashion editorials and runway shows, in store designs and merchandising layouts, in advertising campaigns, and on the red carpet on our favorite celebrities. We compile these choices all into our ideal style choices and create our looks from them, season after season. We formulate our own aesthetic and realize our fashion self. We cannot forget, when we are presented with all of these fashion options that we stay, tried and true, to that internal trend report and use it as a compass and follow your fashion heart, to the fashionable you.

-fggofstyle


RELATED LINKS

"Freedom of Choice: In Fashion, Are Trends Passe?" by Ruth La Ferla, New York Times

Strike a Pose, Express your Pinterest, and Tumblr for Me

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Monday, January 30, 2012

As social media and the blogosphere continues to grow in more and more expansive, interesting, and co-interdependent ways, the outlets for self-expression and live blogging become more varied and available to suit any type of expression. In the past two years of producing this site, my main focus has been to create content that shares my viewpoint on the fashion and style business all while allowing access to my expertise and insight on it. In order for me to continue to open my world up to you, fair reader, I have created new outlets to show different aspects on my viewpoint.

Here at the FeelGoodGuru of Style, I have created a new companion site on Tumblr called Style Shrine, which features varied content I find stylish and utterly fabulous. Its range spans the worlds of art, fashion, entertainment, photography, music, and lifestyle. Style Shrine is the official sister site to this one, meant for quick consumption, inspiration, and fun. I'm excited to raise her up and watch her grow and I hope you will be too.

I am expanding my live blogging vehicles ( Facebook and Twitterto now include two relevant and fun fashion/lifestyle-centric applications: Pinterest and Pose.
On Pinterest, you can view my pinboards, which serve as my internet-based inspiration for creative projects I am involved in. I of course utilize real-life physical pinboards for creativity, but what draws me to Pinterest is how I can build and create my internet boards which I end up using to shape and form as an additional reference source. Plus, its very interesting to see how other Pinterest users influence and inspire each other, by way of the mechanics of the site.
On Pose, its more about documenting my own personal style and how I see the fashion I am constantly in contact with.  I find the format of Pose as a direct way to share my personal fashion choices (through the outfits/looks I wear), and the physical aspects of fashion styling (through my visual merchandising and client looks, or the goods I see while out and about in the marketplace). Pose allows me to expand my viewpoint and share with you how I interact with the fashion world, based on commerce and brands I find relevant.


I invite you to come and follow me at any or all of these outlets as content I post will enhance and evolve the core content found here in new and interesting ways.

 This site is the Heart of the FeelGoodGuru of Style experience; I Thank You for allowing me to show and share it with You and for being a part of it. I look forward to seeing you all over the World Wide (Fashion) Web...

-fggofstyle

Friday, oh Black Friday (Saks)

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

Are you really ready for the fashion madness..??

Happy shopping this Black Friday!!
-fggofstyle

Missoni for Target Collection 2011

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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

A look from Missoni for Target Capsule Collection 2011
Eagerly anticipated by many (including yours truly), the upcoming and largest designer collection exclusively for Target featuring knitwear luxury brand Missoni, is beyond fantastic. Creating a complete collection for men, women, children, home, and lifestyle, Missoni for Target is sure to be an extreme success and definitely collector worthy. The complete lookbook has just been released and can be viewed here. Get a pen and pad ready so you can make note of what you'll be purchasing on September 13. My list is done and I'll see you...at Target!
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I Thought I Lost You, Louboutin!

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Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Christian Louboutin boutique in West Hollywood/LA
As I drove down Burton Way in Beverly Hills the other day, I looked to my left and gasped when I saw the Christian Louboutin boutique shut and empty! Could that be why the women at the Saks Fifth Avenue Ladies Shoe Salon were lined up in droves in utter anticipation to get themselves a pair of Louboutins because the shop is no more last week (no, its because they're 50% off!!)? With a little investigation and a quick telephone call, I found out that they have moved to a much needed new and larger space to showcase the designer shoes. Last Fall (that just goes to show you where my shoe priorities have been).  The new boutique, at 650 N Robertson Blvd, between Melrose Avenue and Santa Monica Blvd, ups the fashion quotient of the boulevard, which has been getting a much needed economic boost in recent times in the more traffic-heavy parts of it. With Philip Lim, John Varvatos, and Maxfield very very nearby, your one-stop neighborhood shopping destination gets finished completely, from head to red-soled toe.
-fggofstyle

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BLK DNM | A Johan Lindeberg Project

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Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Never one to shun or shy away from amazing contemporary basics, I am always on the look out for brands that keep it simple, clean, and directional to help me keep mine and my clients' wardrobe sleek and streamlined. Johan Lindeberg, aka J Lindeberg, has launched, with perfect perfection in my opinion, a new venture and one of the best contemporary basics line around nowadays. With great offerings for men and women, and keeping everything in a sleek and simple vein, Lindeberg's BLK DNM label has something for absolutely everyone: tailored pieces, denim, knits, sweaters...all the items are made of the highest quality and with distinct details and finishing. There is also a great "newspaper" called "gazette" that is worth getting a copy of as it is a genius bit of marketing and an artistic rendering of the label. With a pop-up store in NYC's SoHo district, BLK DNM keeps it even more cool. And to make sure the cool transcends, they do have a website and e-commerce so you too can get a piece-- BLK DNM | A Johan Lindeberg Project.
Sometimes its too easy to look good and cool at the same time and with BLK DNM, you're killin' it kindly.
-fggofstyle
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Versace for H&M

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As a long time collector and avid fan of Versace, the news of the luxury brands soon to launch collaboration with mega-retailer H&M is one of elation and surprise. With the rise of luxury brands doing high-street fashion becoming ever more prevalent, this move by Versace says, in a clear way to me even more than the great Lanvin x H&M collection last Fall, that no one in any luxury realm cannot ignore the lure and buzz of doing fashion-for-the-masses. With Donatella pulling from the vast Versace archives for inspiration/looks for this collection, its sure to be an interesting and hopefully well-round storytelling retail venture. I'm sure to get a few pieces to add to my personal Versace collection, which dates back to the early 80s. It will be an interesting addition to my archives and I can't wait to see what the H&M Collection says about the direction and future of the Versace brand, and to see how it will instill lust for its luxury brand to the masses.
-fggofstyle

Cover Commando: Prada Spring 2011

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Sunday, April 17, 2011

It's no wonder Prada can command the presence of a major fashion magazine cover because, in every sense of the word, Miuccia Prada can make even burlap the height of fashion, because she is this generation's fashion style savant. Collection after collection comes out in stellar form, devoid of pretense and full of promise and, no doubt style. The Spring 2011 Collection continues to fuel the Prada machine, landing what could be a record number of covers, 48 and counting. Aside from the sheer number, I think we need to examine what the point is being made here by fashion, Prada, and pop culture right now. To me, I feel that this may be the point, or, rather, my interpretation of it (suffice it to say this all comes from viewing a collection with a certain eye and a certain psychology, and gosh-darn-it a "I covet that" desire):
"Avenuel" Magazine
(photo via fashionista.com)

1. I hope its not lost on the masses the true appeal and fun of colorful dressing
2. shows that stylists do in fact share a collective thought-sense with a common vision of moving a fashion consciousness into the public stream of style development
3. injects whimsy and lightens our mood and approach to Spring dressing
4. everyone gets that its fun to get dressed always (and again).
5. Miuccia has a damn good PR firm spinning the wheels
6. start wearing more color NOW

I was telling someone just today that I could be getting close to being over seeing this collection all over the place but honestly I was just projecting how I am over wearing dark colors. Seeing the Spring collection all over the place is perhaps just the reminder that we all need to break free of the dark and step into the color and the bright...

-fggofstyle



Prada’s Spring Collection Lands 48 Covers (Way More Than We Originally Counted) – Fashionista: Fashion Industry News, Designers, Runway Shows, Style Advice
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Dior Diorama

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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

All the speculation of the fashion industry as to who will officially replace John Galliano at Dior continues to grow on and on. And since my own sources had it on strong word that Riccardo Tisci is definitely replacing Galliano (and now is not), the wheel just keeps on...rolling. 

I found this great slideshow which puts into our minds who may or may not be in the running for the top spot at Dior, all in a fun and decidedly stars-in-your-eyes way, through the horoscopes. 

 I would have liked to have seen Tisci come in and inject Dior with his sensibility but I love how he has changed Givenchy and made it contemporary and fresh for me. I feel that he could do the same for Dior and move the brand into new territory, like Galliano did for it in his way (remember the "Reggae Collection"?).
Who do you think should be the new designer at Dior? (leave a comment with your suggestion--no matter how on the pulse or off the cuff it is, it would be interesting to see who you think should fill the position.) 

In the meanwhile, we will have to wait and see who is really taking over the venerable house when it is announced officially by Mr. Arnault and the top brass at Dior, but now, we can enjoy the turn of the wheel.

-fggofstyle

Eastern Trading Company: The Influence of Asian Designers

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

 What makes the fashion industry is its melting pot of cultures and nations, coming together to create these wonderful things we call clothing for our economic and sartorial consumption. It is a reflection of our own culture, I believe. We are a nation of diversity and a culmination of multi-cultures and generations. We as people influence each other constantly. So, it is no wonder that Asian designers are, in my opinion, the current driving force of influence in fashion today. This influence has been on a continual flux throughout the years but has reached a new apex in the past few. Don't mistake me, there have always been Asian designers in America, it is just that they now command a strong and much deserved presence on the International scene.

Coming of age in the 90s, I was treated to the fashion exuberance of Anna Sui, who for me broke the mold when it came to being ethnic and being successful in the fashion business. I was inspired by her efforts and loved her cool urbane "goth girl" chic, both in her personal style and in the great clothes she presented on the runway. Still working successfully today, Anna Sui continues to grow and push the envelope, and paved the way for the new kids on the block. Also like Anna, Vivienne Tam also set the stage. I remember going to the Vivienne Tam store in SoHo in 1995 and loving the shop and its expressive pops of color and  "Tam Dynasty" chic. She continues to influence others today as well. Her use of color and texture is indicative of this, and is one of the few major designers who is not afraid to use these tools to shape and evolve her collections, making them the hallmark of her design aesthetic. The Queen of the Wedding Dress, Vera Wang, solidified her influential place in the industry by working up through the ranks, starting in editorial work and then creating her own design business, focusing on gowns. Her designs became the epitome of specialty dressing, and you couldn't throw a stone at any wedding without hitting a Vera Wang dress. Today, she continues to dominate and influence the industry.

The NKOTB ("New Kids on the Block")--Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, and Thakoon--have been setting the fashion stage on fire with each successive season they present. It is this new garde that are sending waves of influence rippling through the industry.
Thakoon, for example, was featured in "The September Issue", and we can see evidently here that he is a new industry darling and being shaped as such by the major players of it (namely Anna Wintour). His use of simple and definitive shapes means he knows instinctively how to create design that is new and defining, yet classic.
Not needing so much of a helping hand is Alexander Wang, who's signature New Urban look (skinny pant, slouchy top, fitted leather jacket) has become fashion standard and is worn by EVERYONE, EVERYWHERE. His new Spring/Summer 2011 Collection is so far my favorite of all shown during Fashion Week. It is fresh and minimal and is forward-thinking. He wanted to change the uniform he created and move it into a new arena, and I think he hit his mark perfectly. Aside from that, what Wang does in his design aesthetic is create futuristic yet classic shapes that really know how to blend with the body, rooted in American sportswear. His aesthetic is European, American, Asian: its Global.
Jason Wu has the distinguish of being a favorite of First Lady Michelle Obama. Having scored such an important (and prominent) client, he has solidified himself to the annals of American history, and contiunes to put Asian designers on the forefront. Mrs. Obama has worn Jason Wu time and again, and I'm sure its because he designs with an American woman in mind. Using color and fantastic draping, Wu creates designs that celebrate the woman.
New darling Prabal Gurung has come up in the ranks at an exponential pace. Also a favorite of Mrs. Obama, Gurung injects new uses of fabric and cut in his design aesthetic. Not afraid to experiment, Gurung does it with classicism and panache that lends his clothing to always be wearable and of-the moment.
Phillip Lim also is leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry. His design aesthetic is fresh and clean and yet still directional, and very wearable. His Los Angeles store is a feast for the eyes and the sartorial haven as expected. His FNO  party last week was THE event to attend in Los Angeles, peppered with celebrities and Los Angeles style makers alike.

This influence can also be seen and felt by other Asian style makers in the business. ELLE Magazine's Creative Director, Joe Zee, has made that magazine into a true fashion source rival for Vogue, by injecting the magazine which much needed style and a fresh take on its design and presentation. Some of the best editorials in the past few years has come from ELLE. Not surprising since Mr. Zee brings a fashion stylist's detailed eye into the mix. And for me, ELLE has become the new Harper's Bazaar, or at least on par with the re-inventive Liz Tilberis years of that magazine. Two of my favorite fashion bloggers, Susie Bubble, and Jak & Jil's Tommy Ton, are also making their mark on the Asian influence game. Known for their individual style and irreverent viewpoint of fashion, these two bloggers sending ripples across the blogosphere with their mere mention of like (or dislike) of the sartorial persuasion, and their supremely self-indulgent fashion obsessions.

Influence is exactly what it is, influence. It is is the gasoline that fuels the creative machine. It drives us, as a people, and as creative beings forward. Influence not merely suggests but states itself into our thinking and shapes us to venture into new territory. Without it, I'm not sure if we would move forward.
I'm happy that influence has taken on an Asian shape. The new commercial market of mega-populated China is opening up this influence to a new generation as well. I'm sure this is only the beginning. And I can't wait for more.
-fggofstyle
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Generation S

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Wednesday, January 27, 2010

When you look at your label inside your favorite clothing item, what does it say to you? Is it pure and natural, is it a collaborative blend, is it manufactured from the minds of man?

More recently I have been intrigued and curious about eco-fashion and more socially conscious fashion initiatives. It is making more and more sense to me that sustainability and "green" consciousness will be (well, should be) the base note for the industry. Think about it: the #1 used product in fashion textiles is, yes, COTTON. It is the base for everything. It fueled an entire nation (USA), enslaved and freed a people (African Americans), caused a war (US Civil War) and continues to be the thread which binds an entire industry and us as these creatures called human beings.

When I look at the label on my clothing favorites, I can say the are definitely made up of a symbiosis of pure, blend, and synthetic. Of course, these clothing favorites also span a considerate time line of my life and my buying (or fashion) style. As of late, I have been really focusing on buying only pure fabrics and distancing myself further from wearing blends. I have grown very accustomed to the rich and soft feel of 100% cashmere or the durability and adaptability of pure cotton. With that, I have also become more and more aware of not only what my clothes are made of, but how they are made. Where has my cashmere and cotton come from? What human (or machine) hands put my clothes together and under what conditions? This is where the combination of green sourcing and sustainability come together.

I went on a search for more information on the subject. I found this definition in an article published here:



"The nonprofit Sustainable Technology Education Project (STEP) defines eco-fashions as clothes “that take into account the environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry.”
Clothes and accessories that meet such criteria are usually made using organic raw materials, such as cotton grown without pesticides, or re-used materials such as recycled plastic from old soda bottles. Eco-fashions don't involve the use of harmful chemicals and bleaches to color fabrics—and are made by people earning fair wages in healthy working conditions."

It furthered my thinking about eco-fashion, most definitely. Not only is it about the kind of materials used, but also about the whole process. I have a friend who has a manufacturing factory in India and in a number of conversations with them about their "work trips" I have come to find that the factory conditions and the conditions of the workers is the most important and tantemount aspect of the factory. The factory cannot produce and exist holistically if the workers there are not happy, treated fairly, and their work environment is up to (and beyond) standards. My friend makes this the most important part of managing the factory. It becomes a part of the product that comes out of the factory: the quality of the worker's lives/environment shows in the quality of the clothing. My friend believes in the WHOLE process, which cannot be said for many other factories in different parts of the world. And as labor outsourcing becomes more and more necessary for clothing manufacturers, let us all hope that with the awareness of sustainable practices becomes more glaring and important that conditions improve exponentially and that this area of sustainability catches up.
I love the fact that there are Generation S(ustainable) champions out there in the fashion world. People like Summer Raynes, and fashion e-zines and blogs like Ecouterre or EcoFashionWorld, are putting the importance of eco-fashion forward and into our larger fashion world view. Now, I hope and wish that the greater scope of the industry starts to not only take notice but take action to initiate advancement and change throughout it. I know it will take small steps for the big fashion giants to make, but these steps will be important for the future of industry and our world, I believe. I'd love to see Fashion Weeks in the fashion capitals being eco-friendly and eco-conscious, like in Portland or more symposiums and industry conventions like in Geneva, and to think that one day soon, eco-fashion will be a thing in our everyday lexicon and practice. Now that's Good.

-fggofstyle
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